By Lawrence B. Johnson

A wine bargain is a relative concept. The French have an expression that pretty well defines true value: rapport qualité-prix, the balance between the reward in the bottle and what you pay for it. But as it’s hard to apply the word “bargain” to an expensive wine, no matter how exalted the juice, let’s keep this in the real world, where I have a few longstanding favorites – among them Ruffino’s Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale and E. Guigal’s red Côtes du Rhône.

Vintage after vintage, both of these wines perform way beyond their modest price.

Though the straw-clad pot-bellied bottle, symbol of Chianti as mere plonk, is a thing of the distant past, the name still bears a certain onus. When I took a friend to dinner at a favorite restaurant and ordered a Chianti Classico with our steaks, he confessed after a few sips that he’d wondered what I was thinking. Chianti? He loved it.

That said, not all Chianti is equal, and the best of it comes from Chianti Classico, the vineyards at the core of Chianti country in west-central Tuscany. By law, 80 percent of the juice must be Sangiovese; though the remaining 20 percent can be certain indigenous grapes, these days it’s often a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – which is the case with Ruffino’s Riserva Ducale 2011, the vintage currently on store shelves. (Note the tricky similarity between Ruffino, the producer, and the Chianti region Rufina, another source of top-quality wine.)

In Tuscany, 2011 was challenging vintage owing to a hot, dry late season, notably in Chianti Classico. The Ruffino Riserva Ducale – famous as the “tan label” — reflects this stress in an earthy flavor profile that mirrors the wine’s aromas: dried dark fruit and leaves, with a splash of blackberry. In other words, this young wine could be mistaken for one with a good deal more maturity. Even the brick color displays a hint of orange at the edge.

Yet, while I find it fully engaging now, this Chianti Classico also has the good acid structure required for reasonable aging. The Riserva Ducale’s medium weight and density, combined with its robust flavors, make it a versatile match for food. There’s subtle nobility in Ruffino’s savory wine. No straw man, this. ($23)

Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône is another in a consistent line of stunning value. The 2011 entry is blended from 60 percent Syrah, 35 percent Grenache and 5 percent Mourvèdre. This aromatic, spicy wine would be alluring in the glass for its garnet color alone. With the grilling season almost upon us, Guigal’s $14 beauty is a hardy accompaniment worth stocking by the case.

The wine is fruit-driven without being – in the pejorative sense – jammy; it’s plush but still vibrant. On the nose, the substantial Grenache factor gives off a floral scent that calls to mind the violet essence typical of Bordeaux’s Margaux wines. But even on the nose, this Côtes du Rhône reveals a hint of the spice that sets Rhône-produced Syrah apart from that grown anywhere else in the world.

While it’s not likely to be confused with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Guigal Côtes du Rhône bears comparison to, say, a good Gigondas at twice the price. That fits my definition of rapport qualité-prix.

EDITOR’S NOTE: The reviews in Chicago Wine Journal are offered as a guide to attractive choices. The wine world is oceanic; there are thousands of options out there. Wines are selected  for discussion here on the basis of their merits. Hence, reviews in Chicago Wine Journal will not carry numerical ratings. If a wine sounds interesting, try a bottle; a sure thing, buy three.

Tags: Chianti Classico, E. Guigal, Guigal Côtes du Rhone 2011, Ruffino Riserva Ducale, Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico 2011