By Lawrence B. Johnson

It wasn’t the many alluring examples of Pinot Noir that made the biggest impression when some 70 wineries set out their wares at the recent Sonoma in the City showcase at the Drake Hotel. What caught my eye, and palate, was the range of Sonoma wines – the varietals, the blends and the bargains.

Some super sipping would have been required to experience all 250 wines available for sampling from the length of the Sonoma corridor, that vinous wonderland, meandering and diverse, bounded by the Pacific Ocean and the Mayacamas Mountains. It was a two-hour tasting blitz in which some of California’s most famous producers vied with others, less familiar or even quite new, for a few precious minutes of the visitor’s time. 

While checking out the latest from high-profile presenters, I also tried to make as many new acquaintances as possible. Here’s a summary of my most notable moments in this speedy Sonoma survey. These weren’t so much stars of the show as they were stars in my glass, and they’re offered here in no particular order.

Williams Selyem Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2013:  Its brilliant red hue prefaced vibrant fresh strawberry on the palate. Good concentration and a pleasurable finish. ($52)
http://www.williamsselyem.com/

Paul Hobbs Wines Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2013:  This beautifully made wine unfurls vivacious Burgundian cherry flavors. Its complexity bodes age-worthiness, and yet it’s engaging even in its youth. ($55)
http://www.paulhobbs.com/

Lasseter Family Winery Chemin de Fer (Sonoma Valley) 2012:  One of five French-themed offerings from this producer, the Chemin de Fer honors the Southern Rhone Valley. Its spicy profile is dominated by Grenache. Lovely, well-balanced, with generous fruit layered into a good acid structure. ($46)
http://www.lasseterfamilywinery.com/

Francis Ford Coppola Winery Archimedes 2012:  Coppola’s flagship wine, this blend of 95 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 percent Cabernet Franc is densely knitted, multi-layered and profoundly enveloping. Ripe fig rules its fusion of dark fruit. (55)
https://www.francisfordcoppolawinery.com/

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery Siena 2012: The new vintage of this widely available wine provided a happy reminder of what good value Siena delivers year after year. The blend here is 75 percent Sangiovese, with 15 percent Petite Sirah and splashes of other grapes. Generous body with dark, rich, poised fruit flavors. ($24)
http://www.ferrari-carano.com/

Davis Bynum Jane’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) 2012: The nearest thing to a true Burgundian Pinot Noir I tasted here. With its light color and body belying a pronounced core of bright cherry flavors, this charming wine might have been produced in Beaune. ($35)
http://davisbynum.com/

Joseph Swan Vineyards Pinot Noir Saralee’s Vineyard (Russian River Valley) 2012: I admit I reveled in this wine’s mouth-filling richness. It comes on with lustrous color; strawberry dominates the palate. The well-built acid frame portends a wine that will last, but it also drinks wonderfully now. ($39)
http://www.swanwinery.com/

Alexander Valley Vineyards Sin Zin 2012: This attractive Zinfandel boasts a heady blend of spicy red fruits and substantial body, but also finesse. It’s that rarity: a perfect picnic wine that’s also interesting. ($20)
http://www.avvwine.com/

Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley) 2013: My delightful first sip at the show, and I went back near the end to confirm. Quivira’s vivacious Sauvignon Blanc exudes tingling freshness in a beguiling blend of pear and citrus. ($24)
http://www.quivirawine.com/

Rodney Strong Symmetry Meritage (Alexander Valley) 2012: Fashioned on Cabernet Sauvignon, the well-structured, lavishly dark-fruited Symmetry offers an opulent expression of Meritage, sort of the California equivalent of a Super-Tuscan, where the winemaker’s imagination — and ambition — can run free. Splendorous. ($52)
https://www.rodneystrong.com/

EDITOR’S NOTE: Chicago Wine Journal is a new feature of Chicago On the Aisle. It will appear three times each week, offering wine reviews Mondays and Fridays. Wednesdays will be devoted to wine cultural in general, the focus ranging from events and personalities to the pleasures — and perplexities — of this ancient elixir.

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